| Brescia
and the surrounding Lake
Iseo and Franciacorta
The Camonica Valley
Lake Garda and Sabbia Valley
Home Course |
The Camonica Valley
Going back up the Camonica Valley, the villages on every plateau on the
slopes, where stone towers and bell towers rise, often attract our attention.
Inaccessibility was the main defence of the furnaces and the blacksmiths hearths,
which existed before the Romans arrived.
To this activity, which
sprouted from the nearby mines with water and wood necessary for production, is owed the
prosperity that provided for the decorating of the churches with surprising works of art.
A magical religiousness, which lasted for eras, from solar rites of the Camuns who
engraved the rocks, to the cult of the Roman divinities and to a Christianity that was
greedy for miracles as well as for witches to burn.
A BRIEF HISTORY
The numerous rock engravings scattered throughout the valley relate its
prehistory. The people of Camonica Valley were subjugated in 16 BC by Proconsul Publius
Silius, who went up the valley along the Valeriana road and made Cividate the centre.
In 774 Charlemagne (VIII
cent.) entrusted the valley to the monks of Tours, whose presence is recorded by the
numerous churches dedicated to St. Martin.
Since remote times, the extraction of iron ore and other metals fueled the blast furnaces
and workshops which exported their products worldwide.
During his descent to Italy, Redbeard passed through Tonale, finding support from the
passionate Ghibelline nobles from the Camonica Valley. Venice, after taking possession of
the valley in the XV cent. must have had little trust in them, since it ordered the
destruction of many of their castles.
In 1809, Napoleonic soldiers in the northern valley stopped rebel Tyrolese troups led by
Andreas Hofer. On the snowfields of Adamello, in 1915-18, they fought an exhausting trench
war.
The bridge over the river
reminds us of a millennia of events
The small church of the Oratorio next to Montecchio Bridge contains an art treasure -
The fortresses that once controlled the valley now watch the tourism of the thermal
springs - The rediscovery of "The archangel Michaels Fight" in Artogne
Its strategic trading position helped to increase quickly Darfos importance,
which before the year 1000 became a Royal court of the Emperor Henry III and in XII C. had
to account for six thousand inhabitants. The first supporter of the Boario thermal springs
was the writer Alessandro Manzoni, who, from 1845, drank it daily.
The most important monument at DARFO BOARIO TERME is the Chiesetta
dellOratorio (see box on the page 8)
in the hamlet of MONTECCHIO, which is opposite the apse (with a single lancet window,
1300-1400s) of the parish of Santa Maria Assunta. Not far is the risky span of the
so called Roman ponte (bridge), of which the granite and "simona" stone
structure was designed by Francesco Cifrondi (1686).
The hamlet of ERBANNO, of which the historical centre has been well preserved, is
indicated on the road by a Romanesque bell tower with double lancet windows of the
Chiesetta di San Martino, reduced to a cemetery enclosure which one enters by way of a
portal made of "simona" stone and dated 1465. In the chapel, there are frescoes
from a period antecedent to Da Cemmo (the complex is presently inaccessible due to
restoration).
Going up to the town, we see the 1500s Palazzo Federici, with two trilobated windows
on the top floor.
The church of Santa Maria del Restello, north and higher elevated, is from the beginning
of the XVI C. Here is an admirable series of frescoes, done 1530-40, by Callisto Piazza.
In the presbytery at the rear are the Assumption, St. Giorgio and the Princess and on the
left, the Decapitation of St. Giovanni Battista.
Going up the road to Angolo Terme, just before the hamlet of GORZONE, you can turn left to
the Parco di Luine, a hill where prehistoric rock engravings have been discovered (free
entry, closed Mon).
On the external wall of the parish of Gorzone is the sarcophagi of Uson Federici (1336).
The Castello Federici, protected high up, is not far from the hamlet; built around 1160
and of long strategic importance. Today, the towers and wall have disappeared and there
remains an imposing elegant residence.
The thermal spring vocation goes back to the early 1800s in ANGOLO TERME and was
concretised for tourists in the 1950s. The parish of San Lorenzo is rich with XVII
century wood sculptures, of which the portal wings are noteworthy, by the Fantoni school:
fifteen sculptures tell Episodes of the life of Christ. The Sanctuary of San Silvestro has
a great view of the country and valley; built between the XVI-XVIII centuries with an
elegant arcade.
Going back towards Darfo, we turn off left to the
hamlet of MAZZUNNO.
Next to the parish is the small church of San Rocco which contains frescoes from the
1400-1500s by the Pietro da Cemmo school. For a visit, contact the parish priest
(tel. 0364/548062) or the nuns in the near institute.
From Darfo going towards Brescia we come to GIANICO. On the impending mountain with a
broad view of the valley, is the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Monte (or of the Nativity),
constructed in XVIII century on the small church erected in 1536 to invoke protection
against the frequent floods. The main altar piece of the Nativity of Mary is by Palma il
Giovane.
In ARTOGNE it is worth a stop at the Church (1400-1500s) of Santa Maria Elisabetta
on the old Valeriana road. The vault of the presbytery has frescoes recently restored from
sleep under the whitewashing of the time of the plague: it is about a Fight of the
archangel Michael against the forces of evil, dated 1568. Other 16th century frescoes can
be seen in the nave. The canvasses of the Via Crucis deserve attention, said by
Pitocchetto, author of another canvass which is now preserved in the parish, attributed to
Giacomo Ceruti.
The small rustic church of SantAndrea (XV C.) on the outside presents some frescoes
dated XVI-XVII centuries. Inside, are 15th century votive frescoes. For a visit to these
two Artogne churches, ask at the gates of the nearest houses.
PIAN CAMUNO boasts of a rather original XV century construction complex: Santa Maria della
Rotonda has in fact an arcade in front of the presbytery, supported by a column made of
"simona" stone. From behind a wooden grill in the arcade the nuns used to watch
church functions. The XV-XVI century frescoes are by the Da Cemmo school. For a visit,
contact the parish priest, tel. 0364/591506.
Not far from here, the small Santa Giulia church (XV cent.) preserves the Romanesque
absidioles and the squat bell tower from the original building. The Medieval Tower near
the centre of the town has a square plan, with a roof with two slopes and is on the corner
of a wide building.
AT THE DOOR OF THE BRIDGE
The bridge, which was once made of wood, gave access to the fortress which was probably
already on Monticolo before 1000 AD. Its possession was disputed, not only because of a
toll - that is why the bridge was fitted with a door - but because it gave access to the
nearby market. In 1168, "before the Montecchio door", an oath of peace was
issued, before the Brescia consul, by the inhabitants of Borno who had constructed a
palisade to direct the Oglio River water to their advantage, and by those of Esine. In the
long fight, eleven men were killed among which five were vavasours.
A small jewel of painting
The Chiesetta dellOratorio (or of the Dead) was originally a portico entry to the
cemetery where flood victims were buried (1471). The village was destroyed. In following,
the walls were raised, recovered with frescoes by the Pietro da Cemmo school.
At the centre of the vault is Christ surrounded by Apostles,
Evangelists, Doctors of the Church, Martyrs, Deacons, Confessors, Founders of Orders and
Patriarchs. Towards the entry there is a Madonna of Mercy who protects the praying under
her mantle. The Universal Judgement unfolds on the left arch of the contrafaçade. On the
far wall, there is a Madonna on the Throne and other Saints. On the right wall, an opened
window damaged a grand Crucifixion. The church is usually open. For information, contact
the parish priest (tel. 0364 |