| Brescia
and the surrounding Lake
Iseo and Franciacorta
The Camonica Valley
Lake Garda and Sabbia Valley
Home Course |
A
treasure in every church of golden carved wood On the land along the
border of the ancient Valeriana road, which since Roman times, took you to the alpine
passes; the wood is the main ingredient that dynasties of sculptors used to build
monumental scenes around altars
The high Oglio River was reached from the Roman era by way of the Valeriana road, which
from Brescia climbed through the Trompia Valley, passed through the Camonica Valley, and
then branched off and up to Vezza dOglio towards Valtellina.
From PONTE DI LEGNO today, there passes ss 42, which takes
you to Tonale Pass (through which travelled the Emperor Frederick Redbeard on his descents
to Italy), and ss 300, which takes you to Gavia Pass. These border people were described
by a Venetian from the 1600s as "shrewd, ready, resolute, ferocious and brave
and skilled with arms, and able to deal with any danger".
The parish of Ponte di Legno, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was built in 1685 in baroque
style with a 16th century bell tower next to it. The main altar is made up of a monumental
and compact ensemble, with imposing statues: it is the best synthesis of all the wood
sculptures in the valley. It is attributed to the wood carving shop of Domenico and Giovan
Battista Ramus; the frontal, however, is attributed to Zotti.
On the way to Gavia, there are three churches of some interest, all of the artwork being
of woodcraft. The church of St. John the Baptist in ZOANNO is noteworthy for its
1700s style bell tower made of visible rocks and frescoed by Corbellini. The Chapel
of the Dead is next to it. Further on is the 1600s parish of the Saints Fabiano and
Sebastiano in PRECASAGLIO. Five statues from the Andrea Fantoni (1716) workshop are
striking on the baroque tribune of the main altar. The tribune is attributed to Giovan
Battista and Pietro Ramus.
Below the town of PEZZO, the small church of St. Apollonia is impressive for its form and
location (for information contact the neighbour hotel in the opening season). The
typically alpine architecture goes back to a bit after the year 1000, but was later
estimated even to be from the XII century. In the apse, there are frescoes from the 16th
century.
In TEMU, the parish of St. Bartolomeo (XVII cent., restructured XIX cent.) contains
a woodwork collection. The main altar has a frontal, tabernacle and monumental frame from
the workshop of Giovan Battista Zotti; while the frontals of the two side altars are
attributed to Piccini: on the left, on the altar of St. Antonio, is the Miracle of the
Ostia (sacrificial victim), on the right, the Nativity.
The small church of St. Alexander is between the hamlets LECANU and Vione, along a
flat, scenic path for a pleasant walk. It has preserved a 13th century bell tower with
double lancet windows and small windows.
The inhabitants of VIONE were jokingly called "doctors" by the other valley
families. In 1460, a priest actually established the first school, which lasted until
1705. The ancient origin of the site was made evident by the discovery of the Longobard
necropolis. Charlemagne had the Castle of Polagra destroyed, which was said to have six
towers, because it was considered a pagan hideout.
The parish of St. Remigio preserves half of the Romanesque apses (XII-XIII cent.) made of
alternating white ashlar and grey stone. The building was erected at the end of the 16th
century, the interior is striking for its elegant late Gothic style. Some paintings from
the 1500-1600s are preserved here from the Lombard and Venetian schools, some of
quality workmanship. The fresco of the abbot St. Anthony (XVI cent.) is on the left wall.
The main altar piece (XVII cent.) is a work by Giuseppe Bulgarini. The tabernacle and the
deposit storages for relics are by Domenico Ramus. The frontal artist is unknown.
Wood carving works rom the Ramus workshop can also be seen in STADOLINA in the church of
St. Giacomo, with a monumental frame by Giovan Battista Ramus (1645), and in CANE in the
parish of St. Gregorio Magno.
The powerful and branched out Federici family from the Camonica Valley was always ready to
take the opportunity to extend their power and the autonomy of Brescia, lining up with the
Ghibellines who supported Redbeard, and thereafter with the Viscontis who contended for
the valley against Venice.
In VEZZA DOGLIO, from the XV to the XVII century, there lived a
"tranquillo" branch of this family. The Federici Palace is abandoned today, but
on the road to the hill of the parish we note the beautiful portal built in 1563 by Pompeo
Federici for the residence which once englobed both a small church and a medieval tower
(XIV cent.), visible from a back courtyard: short and squatty, and made of regular granite
ashlar, with three windows with Gothic arches.
On a precipice along the ancient Valeriana road, which we cover in a short walk, we see
the church of St. Clemente. It is among the oldest in the valley (XII cent, restructured
XVI cent), with a drystone bell tower with elegant double lancet windows and a pyramidal
cusp. On the edges of the big rocks, there are traces of an old peoples home for
pilgrims.
SCULPTED WOOD FROM THE HIGH VALLEY
Wood sculpture of the Camonica Valley was produced, especially in the upper Valley
between the 15th and the 18th centuries. The Ramus family from Edolo (active from 1630 to
the end of the 1700s also in the Trento region) had its big school from which
descended two generations of sculptors. The most famous names of artists are Giovan
Battista Zotti, Piccini and Andrea Fantoni (originally from Roveta in the territory of
Bergamo). Beniamino Simoni is worth remembering as well, a native of Valsaviore and author
of the Way of the Cross in Cerveno. Golden statues, sumptuous altars, baroque decorations
are surprises that, thanks to their work, the visitor can see the most secluded little
church in the Valley. |