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Spits, game, boiled meat,
but also lake-fish. And: ravioli, soups, mountain mushrooms, polenta, cheeses and
sausages...
Brescian cooking has hundreds of dishes to offer in which
the cooking traditions of the mountains, plain and lakes are mingled and all of which are
accompanied by exquisite, high quality local D.O.C. wines.Lakeside
cuisine
This is mostly based on simple methods of preparing lake-fish. The Carp
("carpione"), that finds its habitat in Lake Garda, cooked with peas and tomato
sauce, is still the unquestioned king of Garda cooking even if it is getting more
difficult to find on restaurant menus.
Perch, bleak (cooked in onions), grilled "sardine"
on Montisola and baked or stuffed tench on the shores of Iseo (in particular Clusane) are
all delicious.
It is very difficult to identify typical Brescian cooking as local cuisine has freely
borrowed from nearby provinces.
Typical is "casonsèi", eaten in both Brescia and Bergamo
provinces, large home-made ravioli filled with egg, seasoned cheese or ricotta ("puina"),
spinach or meat, and seasoned with sage-flavoured butter.
In the Brescian part of the Lombardy plain, "tortelli di zucca" are a
speciality. They are a variant on the dish from Mantova and are tortelli pasta filled with
pumpkin and macaroons. Another dish claimed by the Brescians, the Bergamaschi and the
inhabitants of Valtellina is "polenta taragna" , named after the long stick ("tarai")
used to stir the large copper pots. This is dark corn-meal (polenta) made from
yellow corn-flour and a handful of buckwheat into which fresh cheese such as
"gorgonzola", "robiola", mountain "stracchino" (a soft
cheese) are added at the end of the cooking with melted butter.
In Valsabbia, Bagolino cheese, "bagòss", is used. Similarly, the
origin is disputed of a wide variety of "polenta consa" (polenta
with cheese added), often served on the lakes with "aole" , a
small fish called bleak.
Brescian cooking has created an approach known, unfortunately, as "povertà",
literally poverty, referring both to the variety of ingredients used and the elaborateness
of the preparation.
Surprisingly, the results are
excellent and full of flavour.
"Polenta" was once the daily food of the poor and eaten alone. Today it
is still popular and eaten with meat or fish. Country dishes served with polenta are
"cotiche in umido", pork crackling in tomato sauce; "stufato",
beef-stew; "trippa", tripe; "lepre in salmì", salmì of
hare; "coniglio", rabbit; "capretto alla bresciana",
finely chopped pieces of kid sprinkled with white wine when three-quarters cooked; "manzo
allolio", beef cooked in oil; "Uccellini scappati",
roulades of pork with sage; the choice Brescian dish in autumn. Also popular are "lumache
alla bresciana", snails cooked with spinach and grated parmesan cheese; "trippa
alla camuna", tripe prepared in minestrone with pinto beans; "rane
alla camuna" frogs cooked in milk and butter; "frittate",
omelettes, "risotti" and "minestre", soups made with
herbs ("virzulì") or mountain asparagus ("spàres de
mont") or rice and chicken giblets (the so-called "minestra sporca",
"dirty soup"), "radici amare".
Also part of the Brescian cooking are the dishes based on stale bread which, instead of
being throw away, is used as the main ingredient in tasty, filling meals. The best known
is "zuppa di mariconde" (bread crumbs soaked in milk, mixed with
egg and Parmesan, then cooked in chicken broth). Similar but served without broth are
"gnocchi di pane". Part of the same family of recipes is " strangolapreti alla
bresciana", small gnocchi made of spinach, bread, egg and cheese, seasoned with
melted butter, grated cheese and sage. Bread is also used in the standard filling for
boiled chicken; it is so simple that it does not use either meat or eggs but only stale
bread, broth, grated cheese, garlic, spices and nutmeg.
Stale bread is also used to prepare "capù senza ale", small
bundles are prepared of the leaves of a large savoy cabbage filled with grated bread, egg,
grated cheese, parsley and spices which are then fried in butter, oil and tomato sauce.
Dessert
The most famous must be "bossolà", related to the more famous
Veronese cake, "pandoro". It is made from a light pastry based on
butter and eggs and baked in the shape of a dome with a hole in the middle. "Brescian
biscuits" are light and delicate and can be found in old-fashioned bakers
shop. "Scalitù" is a speciality of Valsabbia, prepared with corn-flour
and figs. Not to be forgotten are "chisol", "stricaganàse",
"barchitine del Signùr" and "persicata", bars of peach
jelly, which it is said were invented by a woman who wanted her son away at war to be
reminded of the taste of the local peaches. As it was not possible to send fresh fruit
which would go rotten during the journey, the canny lady invented what is still known as
"persicata".
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